Interview with Isabelle Van Ingen
Why was Isa Fragrances created and what does it offer?
Isa Fragrances was created when I saw the need for companies who are involved in products containing a fragrance, to get hands-on advise from an independent person with knowledge and contacts in the fragrance industry. The fragrance industry is a very hidden industry and very specialized. This means that it is difficult for companies / people who do not work in this business, to get the full understanding about fragrances. Besides the knowledge, companies use my ‘bridge-function’ as I have connections with all top 10 fragrance houses in the world as well as other suppliers that are involved in product development. The advise can be given to companies who have a lot of knowledge in –house as well as to companies who have no experience at all with fragrances / products containing a fragrance.
Besides projects for companies, I give perfume workshops for groups of individuals as well as for companies.
- What is the role of a ‘Fragrance consultant’?
The role of a ‘fragrance consultant’ is not well-defined as there are not many people doing this. For me it means the following: a fragrance consultant helps companies with any possible project that includes a fragrance. It can vary from a strategic portfolio analysis, cost saving projects and new product development (whole product, not only perfume). Clients can be local companies, large international companies as well as small groups or an individual (for example a celebrity that would like to launch her own perfume).
- You have lived in many different countries, including the States, how have you found the working as a Fragrance consultant in Catalunya?
I have worked in the USA, UK, Holland and Spain. In all these countries I have worked for Perfume Houses or for companies that sell products containing a fragrance. Only in Catalunya, I have worked as a fragrance consultant. I work for European clients, which makes it for me not very different to work in Catalunya as in other countries.
- When was the first perfume created?
Already in the ancient Egyptian times, they were offering myrrh and incense to the Gods. This is where the word perfume came from (per fumum = through smoke). In those times, they were also already perfuming cosmetics. Perfume was also already known with the ancient Greeks, in Rome and in the Islamic world
- How do perfumes reflect the era in which they were created?
The world of fragrance development is closely connected to trends in economics, arts, fashion etc. This means that in times of wealth and happiness, there is more room for creative fragrances where as in times of recession people tend to go back to what gives them comfort: in fragrances that means that they go back to florals.
- How have perfumes over say, the past 100 years changed according to the socio- economic climate?
Until about 1850, perfumery was a craft (a perfumer developed a perfume for 1 individual, normally a King or nobleman). After the industrial revolution (around 1900), perfume houses were created (like Roger & Gallet) that made it possible to create perfumes for larger groups of people. Until 1970, perfumes were still a luxury product for the elite. From 1970 onwards, especially in the USA, a mass market was developed, which made perfumes available for a much bigger audience. Nowadays, there are perfumes available for the mass market as well as still very expensive, luxurious fragrances.
- In your workshops, you give people the chance to create their own perfume, could you explain a little about the process involved?
In the workshops I give people an insight in how a perfumer creates a fragrance, using the ‘fragrance triangle’ with top (very volatile ingredients), heart (signature of the perfume) and base notes (least volatile ingredients). The ingredients can be classified in 11 families. We smell 22 perfume ingredients as well as some real perfumes that represent these families. With this knowledge, people can create their own personal perfume, based on their own personal preference. For people who do not want to be that creative, I have some formulas that they can follow, created by a senior perfumer who is also a close friend of mine. Of course, people can take their own creation home in a small bottle.
- Is there such a thing as having a good ‘nose’ to create a good perfume, or is it more a chemical concoction?
Both. For a start you need to have a good sense of smell, if you want to become a perfumer. But it takes a lot of knowledge and experience of all the chemical processes and ingredients you can use.
- If anyone can create their own perfume, why are some so much more successful than others?
In my workshops, we use 22 ingredients to create. This is already a lot, if you are doing this for the first time. I have chosen only ‘easy-to-use’ and ‘nice-to-smell’ ingredients in order to make it not overly complicated. A real perfumer can choose from up to 3000 different ingredients, depending on the product he is creating for. He needs to know all the different combinations and you can imagine that the possibilities are endless! Of course, these perfumes smell different than the ones created in the workshops. There is often also a big difference between perfumes created by a junior or a senior perfumer: it takes a lot of time and experience to be able to create something spectacular.
- What do you believe is the secret to a successful fragrance?
I believe strongly in polarizing fragrances. This means a perfume that is different, that has a signature. People like it or do not like it; but when they like it, they will come back for it and repurchase. There are many successful examples in the market, like Chanel 5 (although this perfume became such a legend, it is not the perfume anymore that sells), Le Male, Angel.
- What is the difference between Eau de Cologne and Perfume?
A perfume is just more concentrated than Eau de Cologne and that is why it is more expensive
- Are your workshops aimed at the male market too?
Yes. Unfortunately the subject ‘perfumes’ seem to attract more women in the first place. But the men that have participated so far, have all enjoyed it very much. I hope to get a 100% male group once, that would be fun and challenging too!
- Apart from creating your own fragrance, what do you hope that people will get out of the workshops?
Fun and enjoyment for a few hours. Some knowledge on a subject they like but do not know much about. If I can pass on a bit of passion for fragrances, that would be great too!
As a mother of two small boys, how does your work fit in with family life?
Working for myself, means that I can be very flexible with my agenda. This is great for me, as well as my husband and 2 sons.
- Do you believe Catalunya is sympathetic to working mothers from the International Community?
Being Dutch, I am very used to parttime work, shared jobs and working from home – even if you are working for a company. In Catalunya these concepts are not (very) developed which makes it very difficult for many International mothers to work in the way they might like. For me, it means that I feel very fortunate that I can manage my own agenda and that I can combine a working life with lots of time with my family too.
(March 2010)
